STUDIES IN THE NAPOLEONIC WARS 077
A Spanish Traveller
10. A Spanish Traveller (10)
July 27th. This day my deliverer brought to me a trusty and singularly clever man, who spoke several languages, and knew the different passes of the mountains very well. But, to my great surprise and disapprobation, this guide refused to stir before Sunday night. I argued, but all in vain, Superstition led him to think the first part of my escape miraculous, and his mind dictated to him a move on the Holy Day and no other. From this cause I shall name him Don Sunday. He was possessed with numerous excellent qualities, and had that happy manner, which attends some persons, of pleasing all men with whom they have intercourse. His superstition was extreme: and the manner in which he related my escape astonished not only the ignorant, but many intelligent persons during our journey: in some instances, I believe, it induced strangers to show us a civility which we should not have had without the story,
The good woman of the house and Don Sunday made ready what we thought was best calculated for travellers in this burning weather. A quantity of bread in small rolls, a number of hard-boiled eggs, some cow-heels with the bones taken out, and some undressed ham, to carry which a large wallet was purchased. Don Sunday also procured, as a deception, a quantity of brass and iron wire, with a small hammer and gimlets, as if to rivet china.
July 28th, Sunday, I was dressed as a Spanish traveller, in the same cloak and hat in which I had quitted the prison, and after having taken leave of my deliverer and his wife, started off with a light heart, while my guide threw the wallet across his shoulders. We passed both the guard at the city gate and also that on the river without any notice taken. Having crossed the Guadalquivir, we left the main road and pursued our way close along the banks. After some time we found an immense thicket, in which we took up our abode for the night. I never slept more soundly. At break of day we left our lair to the quiet possession of the foxes, who were as thick there as rabbits in a warren.
July 29th. We proceeded on our journey to a town called Alcalá de Rio, and I assure you we were not remiss in keeping a look round about us from every rising ground. Having arrived near the town, I rested in an orange grove, exhausted from the pain of my wound and unaccustomed walking, while Don Sunday went to learn if the French were about. He returned shortly with two young men, who told us that there was a detachment in the town at the moment. They said that the French had just taken a young Spaniard, who had given information to the Spanish army, and had shot him in the street. They believed the French were still in the town; but other persons coming up said that they had departed half an hour before we arrived. This enabled us to go to the town: I had a letter for a Spanish gentleman there from my friend at Seville. I readily found him: he offered at once all his house afforded, and inquired my plans. I told him I was going straight to the mountains, which he thought the best means of security. Taking us to the back of his house, he pointed with his finger to a certain spot in the mountains, and bade me go to it, as we should there find a shepherd’s hut where we might rest safely for the night.
All the afternoon we walked over an interminable plain, till we reached the foot of the hills, at a point where a small, beautiful river ran out of them. By its bank was a little hut, with a spring and garden. On entering we found it inhabited by a well-dressed negro and a Spanish boy, whom we asked for water. It was brought us by the black, who seemed to me to have been a gentleman’s servant. We sat for some time under the shadow of a tree. While resting there we saw a gentleman on horseback ride up. He addressed me; but as I could not perfectly understand him, I signed to Don Sunday, with whom he continued his conversation. He said: “I perceive the gentleman you are guiding is an Englishman. I have followed you from Alcalá at a distance, in order to prevent you losing your way: you might easily go to the farm-houses on the right, instead of to the hut on the verge of the hills, to which I will conduct you myself.” As we had a steep climb before us, and I was much fatigued, he insisted on my riding his horse; while he with Don Sunday took a short cut through a wood, and arrived a few moments before I reached the hut by way of the track. The first thing which attracted my curiosity was ten or twelve large dogs, somewhat like English lurohers. Some of them appeared half starved; but they behaved handsomely enough to me—not even barking. This I attribute to their master’s having taken me by the hand to welcome me at his hut door, for I saw afterwards that they were confoundedly cross to other passers-by. The shepherds paid me every attention. At first they appeared afraid to speak; but putting down a dollar I soon found a ready passport to their civilities.
The hut was twelve feet square, built with rough stone, and thatched with reed. The floor was bare rock, and the only furniture a wooden bowl and two large pots. Supported by rush ropes there hung from the roof many shepherd’s crooks, and long poles shod with iron at the smaller end. They prepared the best bed they could for us, by laying down sheepskins in a corner. The gentleman who had guided us shook me by the hand, wished me every happiness and a safe journey, and departed. I lay down to rest; but the floor was so uneven, and my body so fatigued, that I was obliged to refresh myself with some wine and bread before slumber found me.
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“I had a letter for a Spanish gentleman there from my friend at Seville. I readily found him: he offered at once all his house afforded.”
A quite different age.